Do I really need primer?
Sometimes. Over a sound, previously painted surface in a similar colour, a quality paint will do the job on its own. You do need primer over bare drywall, over patches and repairs, over bare or knotty wood, over glossy surfaces, and when covering a strong colour with a much lighter one.
Anyone who tells you primer is always necessary is padding the quote. Anyone who tells you it never is has not repainted enough dark red walls.
Can you match my wall texture?
Usually. Orange peel and knockdown are the two most common textures in Maryland homes and both are routinely matchable. Heavier hand-applied textures and skip trowel are harder, and occasionally the honest answer is that skimming and re-texturing the whole wall will look better than trying to blend a patch into it.
How long before I can put furniture back?
Dry to the touch and fully cured are different things. Most interior latex coatings are touch-dry within a couple of hours and recoatable the same day, but they continue hardening for a couple of weeks.
Practically: furniture back against the walls after 24 hours, but avoid pushing anything hard against fresh paint or taping to it for the first week or so.
Why does my ceiling stain keep coming back?
Because the water is still getting in, or because the stain was painted over with a standard coating instead of being sealed. Tannin and water stains bleed straight through latex. They need a stain-blocking primer over dry, sound material — and the leak needs fixing first.
Should I use flat or something with a sheen?
Flat hides surface imperfections better, which is why builders use it and why ceilings are almost always flat. It also cleans badly. In hallways, stairwells, kids’ rooms and kitchens, an eggshell or satin will survive daily life far better and is usually the single best upgrade you can make over builder-grade flat.
Have a question that is not here? Call us on (240) 981-4472 and ask.